Workshop Guide
Air Plant
Air Plant
Terrarium Guide
No soil. No roots. Just pure plant magic.
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Meet Your Air Plant
The plant that needs no soil — and means it
Air plants — formally known as Tillandsia — are one of the most fascinating plants in the world. They don't need soil to survive. They absorb water and nutrients directly through tiny scales on their leaves called trichomes, and they anchor themselves to surfaces in nature using roots that are purely structural — not for feeding. This means you can display them anywhere, style them however you want, and build a terrarium that looks stunning without a single scoop of potting mix.
⚠️ One thing to clear up right away: "air plant" doesn't mean they live on air alone. They still need water, light, and airflow — they just don't need soil. We'll cover all of that in the care guide section so yours actually thrives.
Your Air Plants
Common Tillandsia varieties in your kit
There are over 650 species of Tillandsia. Here are the most common ones you'll find in our workshops — each with its own personality, texture, and care needs.
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Ionantha
Tillandsia ionantha
One of the most popular air plants. Compact, spiky rosette shape. Blushes red or pink when about to bloom — a sign it's happy and thriving. Hardy and forgiving for beginners.
Beginner friendly
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Xerographica
Tillandsia xerographica
The queen of air plants. Wide, curling silver-grey leaves that spiral into a rosette. Slow growing, dramatic, and incredibly sculptural. Prefers less frequent watering than most.
Statement plant
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Caput Medusae
Tillandsia caput-medusae
Named after Medusa for its wild, twisting leaves that spiral outward from a bulbous base. Unique and sculptural — looks incredible nestled into sand or driftwood.
Sculptural & wild
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Stricta
Tillandsia stricta
Soft, fine leaves that fan outward. One of the easiest air plants to grow — tolerates lower humidity and less frequent watering. Produces beautiful pink blooms when happy.
Easy care
Your Kit
What's on your table
Air plant terrariums skip most of the heavy layers you'd use in a soil-based build. Instead it's all about creating a beautiful, breathable display that shows your plant off at its best.
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Open Glass Container
Wide opening for airflow — essential for air plant health
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Decorative Sand
Creates a beautiful base layer — anchors décor and adds texture
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Pebbles & Stones
Natural stones to nestle your air plant into — no glue needed
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Preserved Reindeer Moss
Adds color, texture, and depth — completely decorative
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Tillandsia (Air Plant)
Your living centerpiece — the star of the whole build
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Decorative Accents
Shells, crystals, driftwood, or figurines — make it yours
💡 Notice what's NOT in your kit: soil, drainage material, and sphagnum moss. Air plant terrariums skip all of that. The open container does the work — keeping airflow constant so your plant never sits in stagnant moisture.
The Layers
How to layer an air plant terrarium
No drainage layer. No soil. Just three simple layers that create a beautiful, breathable landscape for your air plant to live in.
Air plant terrarium — bottom to top
Simple, stunning, and soil-free
4
🌿 Tillandsia air plant — your living centerpiece
The star
3
🌾 Preserved moss + pebbles + décor accents
Finishing touches
2
🪨 Larger stones or driftwood — optional anchor
Optional
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🏖️ Decorative sand — 1 to 2 inches deep
Base layer
💡 The sand layer does double duty — it looks beautiful and it anchors your pebbles and décor so nothing shifts around. Go at least 1 inch deep so everything stays stable.
Let's Build It
Step-by-step build guide
An air plant terrarium is one of the fastest builds we do — which means you have more time to focus on making it look exactly right. Take it slow and enjoy it.
1
Clean your container and plan your layout
Wipe the inside of your glass clean — fingerprints show clearly on an open container. Then spend a minute thinking about your composition before you pour anything. Where will your air plant sit? Will it be centered or off to one side? Will it nestle low in the sand or perch on a stone above the surface? These decisions are easier to make before you build than after.
💡 Try resting your air plant on the outside of the container in a few different positions before you commit. Air plants have a natural "front" — the side that looks most full and interesting. Find it first.
2
Pour your sand base
Pour decorative sand into the container — aim for 1 to 2 inches deep. Tilt and tap the container gently to level it. If you want to create a slight slope or landscape effect, do it now by pushing the sand higher on one side. A varied surface always looks more natural than a perfectly flat one.
💡 Pour slowly from low inside the container so sand doesn't cloud up the glass as much. If you get a lot on the sides, let it settle and use a dry paintbrush or tissue to clean the glass before the next layer.
3
Add your stones, moss, and decorative elements
Press larger stones partway into the sand so they look embedded rather than sitting on top. Tuck pieces of preserved reindeer moss between stones to fill gaps and add color. Add any decorative accents — shells, crystals, driftwood, figurines — wherever they feel natural. Leave a clear, intentional spot where your air plant will sit. Step back and look before you move on.
💡 Odd numbers of rocks always look more natural. Three stones in a loose cluster feels like a real landscape. Two feels placed. Leave breathing room between elements — a terrarium that looks a little sparse before the plant goes in usually looks perfect after.
4
Place your air plant
Nestle your Tillandsia into the spot you planned — resting in a stone cradle, sitting in a bed of sand, or leaning naturally against a pebble. Don't use glue or wire to secure it — air plants need to be removable for watering. Press it gently into position so it looks settled and natural. Make any final adjustments to your décor around it.
⚠️ Never glue your air plant to the container or the décor. It needs to be removed for soaking every 1–2 weeks. If your plant is wobbly, nestle it more deeply into the sand or adjust the stones around it to create a natural cradle.
5
Find its spot at home
Place your finished terrarium in bright, indirect light — near a window is ideal, but out of direct sun which can scorch the leaves. Make sure there's airflow around it — air plants actively suffocate in stagnant, humid air. Don't water it today; give it 24 hours to settle into its new home before its first soak.
💡 The best spot: within 3–5 feet of a bright window, with natural airflow from a nearby vent or door. Never in a closed cabinet or on a windowsill with all-day direct sun.
Care Guide
Keeping your air plant alive and thriving
Air plants are low maintenance — but they do have specific needs that are different from almost every other plant. The biggest thing to understand: they need water, but they hate sitting in it.
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Watering
Soak in room-temperature water for 20–30 minutes every 1–2 weeks. Remove from terrarium, soak in a bowl or sink, shake off excess, and dry upside down for 1–2 hours before returning.
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Light
Bright indirect light. 3–5 feet from a window is ideal. Can tolerate lower light but will grow slower. Never direct afternoon sun — it scorches the leaves quickly.
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Airflow
This is critical. Air plants need air circulation to dry out between waterings. An open container is essential — never enclose your air plant in a sealed jar or it will rot.
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Temperature
Comfortable between 50–90°F. Keep away from cold drafts and heating vents. They prefer stable temperatures — extreme fluctuations stress the plant.
The watering routine — step by step
| Step | What to do | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Remove | Take the air plant out of the terrarium | Sand and preserved moss should not get soaked |
| 2. Soak | Submerge in room-temp water for 20–30 min | Leaves absorb water through trichomes — full submersion is most effective |
| 3. Shake | Gently shake off excess water | Water pooling in the base or center causes rot |
| 4. Dry | Rest upside down on a towel for 1–2 hours | Allows all trapped water to drain out of the base |
| 5. Return | Place back in terrarium once fully dry | A wet plant in an enclosed space causes mold and rot |
⚠️ The most common air plant killer is skipping the drying step. If your plant goes back into the container while wet — especially if nestled in sand or moss — the trapped moisture causes the base to rot within days. Dry it upside down first, every single time.
What You Learned
The bigger picture
Air plants are unlike almost anything else in the plant world. Here's the science and the life lessons hiding inside your tiny Tillandsia.
01
They absorb water through their leaves
Tillandsia leaves are covered in tiny scales called trichomes that open up to absorb moisture and nutrients directly from the air and water. This is why submerging the whole plant — not just the base — is the most effective way to water it.
02
Their roots are for holding on, not feeding
In nature, air plants cling to tree branches, rocks, and telephone wires using their roots — but those roots absorb almost nothing. This is why they can grow without soil and why they can be mounted on virtually any surface.
03
They only bloom once — but it's spectacular
Most Tillandsia bloom once in their lifetime, producing a dramatic flower in pink, red, purple, or orange. After blooming, the mother plant slowly dies back but produces "pups" — baby plants that grow from its base and continue the cycle.
04
Blushing means it's happy
Many air plants change color — often turning pink, red, or orange — as they approach blooming. This color change is called blushing and it's a sign of a healthy, thriving plant. If your Ionantha starts turning pink, something good is coming.
05
Silver leaves vs green leaves
Tillandsia with silvery or fuzzy leaves have more trichomes and are adapted to drier environments — they need less frequent watering. Green, smoother-leaved varieties prefer more humidity and more regular soaking.
06
Epiphytes — the original freeloaders
Air plants are epiphytes — plants that grow on other plants or surfaces without being parasitic. They take nothing from their host, just use it for support. They evolved this way in tropical environments where competition for soil nutrients was fierce.
Troubleshooting
When something looks off
| What you're seeing | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves curling inward or feeling dry | Underwatering or too much direct sun | Soak for 30–40 minutes. Move away from direct sun. Increase watering frequency. |
| Brown, mushy base | Rot — water trapped at the base | Remove rotted sections with clean scissors. Let dry completely. Improve drying routine before rewatering. |
| Brown leaf tips | Low humidity or underwatering | Increase soaking frequency. Mist lightly between soaks. Keep away from heating vents. |
| Leaves falling off or plant falling apart | Overwatering or rot at the core | Check the base — if it's soft and dark, rot has set in. Trim and let dry out completely before watering again. |
| Plant looks pale or bleached | Too much direct light | Move to bright indirect light. Some color loss in strong light is normal but fading signals too much sun. |
| No growth, looks stuck | Too little light or not enough water | Move closer to a bright window. Increase soaking to weekly. Check that the drying process isn't taking too long. |
| Plant turning pink or red | Pre-bloom — completely normal! | Celebrate — your plant is about to bloom. Keep up your current care routine and watch for a flower spike. |
Soak it. Dry it. Watch it bloom.
Your air plant is one of the most ancient and adaptable life forms on Earth.
Give it light, airflow, and a good soak — and it will reward you beautifully.
Soak every 1–2 weeks · Always dry upside down · Bright indirect light · Keep the air moving
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Tag us in your air plant photos — we love seeing what you create!